In the news this week was the joint announcement by the presidents of the European Commission and France of initiatives about welcoming top researchers from abroad, with the aim being especially to encourage researchers from the USA to cross the Atlantic. I've seen some discussion online about this among people I know and thought I'd add a few comments here, for those outside Europe thinking about making such a jump.
Firstly, what is the new initiative? Various programmes have been put in place; on the EU side it seems to be encouraging applications to Marie Curie Fellowships for postdocs and ERC grants. It looks like there is some new money, particularly for Marie Curie Fellowships for incoming researchers. Applying for these is generally good advice, as they are prestigious programs that open the way to a career; in my field a Marie Curie often leads to a permanent position, and an ERC grant is so huge that it opens doors everywhere. In France, the programme seems to be an ANR programme targeting specific strategic fields, so unlikely to be relevant for high-energy physicists (despite the fact that they invited Mark Thomson to speak at the meeting). But France can be a destination for the European programmes, and there are good reasons for choose France as a destination.
So the advice would seem to be to try out life in France with a Marie-Curie Fellowship, and then apply through the usual channels for a permanent position. This is very reasonable, because it makes little sense to move permanently before having some idea of what life and research is actually like here first. I would heartily recommend it. There are several permanent positions available every year in the CNRS at the junior level, but because of the way the CNRS hiring works -- via a central committee, that decides for positions in the whole country -- if someone leaves it is not very easy to replace them, and people job-hopping is a recurrent problem. There is also the possibility for people to enter the CNRS at a senior level, with up to one position available in theoretical physics most years.
I wrote a bit last year where I mentioned some of the great things about the CNRS but I will add a bit now. Firstly, what is it? It is a large organisation that essentially just hires permanent researchers, who work in laboratories throughout the country. Most of these laboratories are hosted by universities, such as my lab (the LPTHE) which is hosted by Sorbonne University. Most of these laboratories are mixed, meaning that they also include university staff, i.e. researchers who also teach undergraduates. University positions have a similar but parallel career to the CNRS, but since the teaching is done in French, and because the positions only open on a rather unpredictable basis, I won't talk about them today. The CNRS positions are 100% research; there is little administrative overhead, and therefore plenty of time to focus on what is important. This is the main advantage of such positions; but also the fact that the organisation of researchers is done into laboratories is a big difference to the Anglo-Saxon model. My lab is relatively small, yet contains a large number of people working in HEP, and this provides a very friendly environment with lots of interesting interactions, without being lost in a labyrinthine organisation or having key decisions taken by people working in vastly different (sub) fields.
The main criticisms I have seen bandied around on social media about the CNRS are that the pay is not competitive, and that CNRS researchers are lazy/do not work. I won't comment about pay, because it's difficult to compare. But there is plenty of oversight by the CNRS committee -- a body of our peers elected by all researchers -- which scrutinises activity, in addition to deciding on hiring and promotions. If people were really sitting on their hands then this would be spotted and nipped in the bud; but the process of doing this is not onerous or intrusive, precisely because it is done by our peers. In fact, the yearly and five-yearly reports serve a useful role in helping people to focus their activities and plan for the next one to five years. There is also evaluation of laboratories and universities (the HCERES, which will now be changed into something else) that however seems sensible: it doesn't seem to lead to the same sort of panic or perverse incentives that the (equivalent) REF seems to induce in the UK, for example.
The people I know are incredibly hard-working and productive. This is, to be fair, also a product of the fact that we have relatively few PhD students compared to other countries. This is partly by design: the philosophy is that it is unfair to train lots of students who can never get permanent positions in the field. As a result, we take good care of our students, and the students we have tend to be good; but since we have the time, we mostly do research ourselves, rather than just being managers.
So the main reason to choose France is to be allowed to do the research you want to do, without managerialisation, bureaucrats or other obstacles interfering. If that sounds appealing, then I suggest getting in touch and/or arranging to visit. A visit to the RPP or one of the national meetings would be a great way to start. The applications for Marie Curie fellowships are open now, and the CNRS competition opens in December with a deadline usually in early January.