Sunday, 11 May 2025

Choose France for Science

In the news this week was the joint announcement by the presidents of the European Commission and France of initiatives about welcoming top researchers from abroad, with the aim being especially to encourage researchers from the USA to cross the Atlantic. I've seen some discussion online about this among people I know and thought I'd add a few comments here, for those outside Europe thinking about making such a jump.

Firstly, what is the new initiative? Various programmes have been put in place; on the EU side it seems to be encouraging applications to Marie Curie Fellowships for postdocs and ERC grants. It looks like there is some new money, particularly for Marie Curie Fellowships for incoming researchers. Applying for these is generally good advice, as they are prestigious programs that open the way to a career; in my field a Marie Curie often leads to a permanent position, and an ERC grant is so huge that it opens doors everywhere. In France, the programme seems to be an ANR programme targeting specific strategic fields, so unlikely to be relevant for high-energy physicists (despite the fact that they invited Mark Thomson to speak at the meeting). But France can be a destination for the European programmes, and there are good reasons for choose France as a destination. 

So the advice would seem to be to try out life in France with a Marie-Curie Fellowship, and then apply through the usual channels for a permanent position. This is very reasonable, because it makes little sense to move permanently before having some idea of what life and research is actually like here first. I would heartily recommend it. There are several permanent positions available every year in the CNRS at the junior level, but because of the way the CNRS hiring works -- via a central committee, that decides for positions in the whole country -- if someone leaves it is not very easy to replace them, and people job-hopping is a recurrent problem. There is also the possibility for people to enter the CNRS at a senior level, with up to one position available in theoretical physics most years. 

I wrote a bit last year where I mentioned some of the great things about the CNRS but I will add a bit now. Firstly, what is it? It is a large organisation that essentially just hires permanent researchers, who work in laboratories throughout the country. Most of these laboratories are hosted by universities, such as my lab (the LPTHE) which is hosted by Sorbonne University. Most of these laboratories are mixed, meaning that they also include university staff, i.e. researchers who also teach undergraduates. University positions have a similar but parallel career to the CNRS, but since the teaching is done in French, and because the positions only open on a rather unpredictable basis, I won't talk about them today. The CNRS positions are 100% research; there is little administrative overhead, and therefore plenty of time to focus on what is important. This is the main advantage of such positions; but also the fact that the organisation of researchers is done into laboratories is a big difference to the Anglo-Saxon model. My lab is relatively small, yet contains a large number of people working in HEP, and this provides a very friendly environment with lots of interesting interactions, without being lost in a labyrinthine organisation or having key decisions taken by people working in vastly different (sub) fields. 

The main criticisms I have seen bandied around on social media about the CNRS are that the pay is not competitive, and that CNRS researchers are lazy/do not work. I won't comment about pay, because it's difficult to compare. But there is plenty of oversight by the CNRS committee -- a body of our peers elected by all researchers -- which scrutinises activity, in addition to deciding on hiring and promotions. If people were really sitting on their hands then this would be spotted and nipped in the bud; but the process of doing this is not onerous or intrusive, precisely because it is done by our peers. In fact, the yearly and five-yearly reports serve a useful role in helping people to focus their activities and plan for the next one to five years. There is also evaluation of laboratories and universities (the HCERES, which will now be changed into something else) that however seems sensible: it doesn't seem to lead to the same sort of panic or perverse incentives that the (equivalent) REF seems to induce in the UK, for example. 

The people I know are incredibly hard-working and productive. This is, to be fair, also a product of the fact that we have relatively few PhD students compared to other countries. This is partly by design: the philosophy is that it is unfair to train lots of students who can never get permanent positions in the field. As a result, we take good care of our students, and the students we have tend to be good; but since we have the time, we mostly do research ourselves, rather than just being managers. 

So the main reason to choose France is to be allowed to do the research you want to do, without managerialisation, bureaucrats or other obstacles interfering. If that sounds appealing, then I suggest getting in touch and/or arranging to visit. A visit to the RPP or one of the national meetings would be a great way to start. The applications for Marie Curie fellowships are open now, and the CNRS competition opens in December with a deadline usually in early January. 

Sunday, 5 January 2025

Making back bacon

As a French citizen I should probably disavow the following post and remind myself that I have access to some of the best food in the world. Yet it's impossible to forget the tastes of your childhood. And indeed there are lots of British things that are difficult or very expensive to get hold of in France. Some of them (Marmite, Branston pickle ...) I can import via occasional trips across the channel, or in the luggage of visiting relatives. However, since Brexit this no longer works for fresh food like bacon and sausages. This is probably a good thing for my health, but every now and then I get a hankering for a fry-up or a bacon butty, and as a result of their rarity these are amongst the favourite breakfasts of my kids too. So I've learnt how to make bacon and sausages (it turns out that boudin noir is excellent with a fry-up and I even prefer it to black pudding). 

Sausages are fairly labour-intensive, but after about an hour or so's work it's possible to make one or two kilos worth. Back bacon, on the other hand, takes three weeks to make one batch, and I thought I'd share the process here.

1. Cut of meat

The first thing is to get the right piece of pork, since animals are divided up differently in different countries. I've made bacon several times now and keep forgetting which instructions I previously gave to the butcher at my local Grand Frais ... Now I have settled on asking for a carré de porc, and when they (nearly always) tell me that they don't have that in I ask for côtes de porc première in one whole piece, and try to get them to give me a couple of kilos. As you can find on wikipedia, I need the same piece of meat used to make pork chops. I then ask them to remove the spine, but it should still have the ribs. So I start with this:



2. Cure

Next the meat has to be cured for 10 days (I essentially follow the River Cottage recipe). I mix up a 50-50 batch of PDV salt and brown sugar (1 kg in total here), and add some pepper, juniper berries and bay leaves:


Notice that this doesn't include any nitrites or nitrates. I have found that nitrates/nitrites are essential for the flavour in sausages, but in bacon the only thing that they will do (other than be a carcinogen) as far as I can tell is make the meat stay pink when you cook it. I can live without that. This cure makes delicious bacon as far as I'm concerned. 

The curing process involves applying 1/10th of the mixture each day for ten days and draining off the liquid produced at each step. After the first coating it looks like this:


The salt and sugar remove water from the meat, and penetrate into it, preserving it. Each day I get liquid at the bottom, which I drain off and apply the next cure. After one day it looks like this:


This time I still had liquid after 10 days:

3. Drying

After ten days, I wash/wipe off the cure and pat it down with some vinegar. If you leave cure on the meat it will be much too salty (and, to be honest, this cure always gives quite salty bacon). So at this point it looks like this:


I then cover the container with a muslin that has been doused with a bit more vinegar, and leave in the fridge (at first) and then in the garage (since it's nice and cold this time of year) for ten days or so. This part removes extra moisture. It's possible that there will be small amounts of white mould that appear during this stage, but these are totally benign: you only have to worry if it starts to smell or you get blue/black mould, but this never happened to me so far.

4. Smoking

After the curing/drying, the bacon is ready to eat and should in principle keep almost indefinitely. However, I prefer smoked bacon, so I cold smoke it. This involves sticking it in a smoker (essentially just a box where you can suspend the meat above some smouldering sawdust) for several hours:


 










The sawdust is beech wood and slowly burns round in the little spiral device you can see above. Of course, I close the smoker up and usually put it in the shed to protect against the elements:


5. All done!

And then that's it! Delicious back bacon that really doesn't take very long to eat:


As I mentioned above, it's usually still a bit salty, so when I slice it to cook I put the pieces in water for a few minutes before grilling/frying:

Here you see that the colour is just like frying pork chops ... but the flavour is exactly right!